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how t-shirts are built

t-shirts look like one of the simplest garments in existence but the way the pieces which go into into their construction are made and joined together is significant

Checking a t-shirt’s side seams and neckline construction is one of the fastest ways to gauge how a shirt was made and how well it's likely to hold up. None of the construction choices are purely cosmetic - they affect:

fit: side-seamed, set-in sleeve construction with rib-knit necklines tends to give the most tailored, long-lasting fit

comfort: fewer seams (tubular body, raglan sleeve) generally means fewer pressure points against the skin

durability: more seams generally mean more potential failure points but also more shape retention

cost: tubular construction with bound necklines is faster and cheaper to produce at scale.

body construction: tubular v’s side-seamed

tubular (circular knit) construction

many t-shirts, especially budget and mid-range basics, are made from tubular knit fabric which is fabric knitted in a continuous cylinder on a circular knitting machine rather than as a flat sheet. Because the fabric already comes out tube-shaped, the body of the shirt can be cut to length with no side seams at all. The sleeves are then attached separately

tubular construction tends to be used in the production of basic t-shirts, multipacks and heavyweight workwear tees where a boxier fit is expected

advantages

  • faster and cheaper to produce, since there's no side-seaming step

  • no seam allowance bulk at the sides which some wearers find more comfortable

  • fewer seams generally means fewer points of potential wear or fraying.

trade-offs

  • tubular fabric has less shaping flexibility - it's harder to taper the garment at the waist for a fitted silhouette

  • fabric width is fixed by the knitting machine's cylinder diameter which can limit sizing options and consistency

  • because there's no seam to anchor the fabric, tubular t-shirts can be more prone to twisting after washing, leading to the t-shirt spiraling slightly around the body.

side-seamed construction

in this method, the t-shirt body is cut from flat-knitted fabric as two separate panels (front and back) and then sewn together along both sides

side-seamed construction is usually associated with higher quality or more fashion-oriented t-shirts

advantages

  • allows for proper garment shaping - tapering at the waist, contouring at the hips - for a more fitted cut

  • reduces the twisting issue common in tubular shirts since the seam helps stabilise the fabric grain

  • more consistent sizing across a size run since panels are cut to pattern rather than being limited by tube diameter.

trade-offs

  • slightly more labour and fabric-cutting involved which adds cost

  • the seam itself can occasionally cause chafing for some wearers, particularly under the arms where side seams typically meet the sleeve seam.

sleeve attachment

set-in sleeves: the sleeve is cut separately and stitched into a curved armhole. This is the standard for most t-shirts and allows for a clean, tailored shoulder line

raglan sleeves: the sleeve extends in one piece up to the collar, with a diagonal seam running from the underarm to the neckline instead of around the shoulder. Common in athletic and baseball-style tees, raglan construction allows for greater range of motion in the shoulder

drop shoulder: the armhole seam sits lower than the natural shoulder line, giving a more relaxed, oversized look.

neckline construction

the neckline is one of the more technically involved parts of a t-shirt becuase it needs to stretch comfortably over the head, hold its shape after repeated washing and lie flat without curling

rib-knit collar (bound neckband)

this is the most common method for crew necks. A separate strip of rib-knit fabric  (knitted with more stretch and recovery than the body fabric)  is cut to a slightly shorter length than the neckline opening, then stretched and sewn on. Because it's slightly shorter than the hole it's covering, it pulls the neckline in slightly, giving it structure and helping it snap back into shape after stretching

self-fabric rib: cut from a rib-knit version of the same fibre/yarn as the body for a tonal, matching finish

contrast rib: a different color or fabric altogether.

binding (bias tape neck)

instead of a ribbed collar, a strip of fabric - often cut on the bias (diagonally across the fabric grain) - is folded over the raw edge of the neckline and stitched down flat. This creates a low-profile finish with minimal bulk

self-fabric finish (turned and stitched hem)

on some lightweight or fashion-forward t-shirts, the neckline is simply folded under (turned) and top-stitched or cover-stitched down, using the same body fabric rather than a separate binding or rib piece. This gives a soft, unstructured edge but offers less shape retention over time compared to rib or binding methods

raw/unfinished edge

occasionally used deliberately in distressed or deconstructed streetwear styles, the neckline is cut and left unbound. This relies on the fabric's natural properties (or a cut resistant to fraying, like certain knits) to avoid unraveling and is more of a design choice than a standard production method

common neckline shapes

regardless of finishing method, necklines also vary in shape:

crew neck: round, sits close to the base of the neck

v-neck: angled point at the front, can be shallow or deep

scoop neck: wider, lower curve than a crew neck

boat neck (bateau): wide, relatively straight-across neckline that sits closer to the shoulders

henley: crew or slightly lower neckline with a short button placket at the front

hemming

finally, the bottom hem and sleeve cuffs are usually finished with a cover-stitch which is a double or triple line of parallel stitching that allows the hem to stretch with the fabric without popping or breaking

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